Battery replacement for Logitech MX Laser Mouse
I lifted the following info from the following sites (I archive them here in case the sites go away). ;)
VK2K.com , Logitech Forum, and FixYa
If you make holes in the pads on the mouse you can get replacements here.
The best walkthrough on VK2K.com
Logitech MX1000 Mouse: Battery replacement how to tutorial/guide
This tutorial is for those who wish to replace their “non-serviceable” MX1000 battery
(last updated May 15, 2008 by VK2K)
The Logitech MX1000 mouse is one the best ever made and it has been my friend for a the last 3 years. Sadly the battery life went down the drain like any rechargeable would after prolong use. Logitech states that the battery can not be serviced. Meaning tough luck, time to buy a new mouse from Logitech. But googling around there were people who had successfully replaced their MX1000 battery. This website here (no longer exists) inspired me to give it a try. All I had to do was find a battery that matched the MX1000. People online had mention “klic-5001” battery works great.
Required tools/items
-Klic-5001 battery for Kodak Li-Ion 3.7V 1600mAh bought off ebay for 5 bucks
-Some 60/40 solder + 15-25w Soldering Iron bought from radioshack
-Screw driver
Step #1: Remove bottom screw
The two screw at the bottom near the recharge contact points circle in green below is hidden.
You must peel off the mouse studs to reveal the screw.
Step #2: Remove top screw
The two screw at the top is also hidden.
You need to peel off the logitech sticker as shown below
Step #3: Take it apart
You should now have all 4 screws out.
The top and bottom pieces should start to come apart
There is two cables that need to be removed circled below
Step #4: Remove battery from top half
The battery is secured by two screws circled below.
Step #5: Cut the battery power cables
Remove the battery cover. There is a stick pad there so it might be little hard to remove
Cut the power cable as close to the battery as possible.
There isn’t much cable lenght to play with so the longer the better.
Step #6: Snip the power cable and solder to new battery
Snip the ends of the power cable as shown below. Just enough so it could be soldered.
If you have nevered soldered before I suggest reading some guides online. It is pretty easy.
Solder the power cable to the new battery in the same color order shown below.
Step #7: Put the pieces back to gether
Putting the mouse back together will probably be harder than taking it apart.
Making it all fit and align up so the buttons work can be a little challenging.
From Logitech Forum
Screw Holes
Battery Frame
Kodak Battery KLIC-5001
With pigtail soldered
From FixYa.com
- Pretty much I cannibalized a pack of battery charging adapter plates, soldered the three wires to them, trimmed & bent them a little.. and then epoxied them down to the battery hold-down in their appropriate places. A little trimming was done on the plastic so the contacts could reach in far enough without obstruction. After having the mouse sit around useless without a working battery in it.. for months, which definitely irritated me… I looked up 3.7V li-ion batteries and came across the “klic-5001 battery” (google it) and ordered two. The first one I destroyed trying to solder the wires directly to the battery contacts.. which just ruined all the internal li-ion battery components(i.e. DO NOT TRY DOING THAT)… the second battery, which I never tampered with whatsoever, is connected to the mouse via the contacts I described above. The klic-5001 batteries by the way do fit very well in the hold-down meant for the original battery. End result: one, exceptionally well working MX1000 mouse which I can replace the rechargeable battery inside anytime it begins to get to aged and not working so well… ^_^ It charges as normal and the battery monitoring works like nothing ever changed.
April 18th, 2009
Great directions.
I just had a quick suggestion: If you peel the top back on the old battery, you can unsolder the red yellow and black leads… you will have longer wires and not have to peel the insulation back off the cut wires.
April 19th, 2009
Russ, that is exactly what I did. The pics on the site were from 2 different walkthroughs. Also I used a 2000mah battery I picked up off ebay…
September 19th, 2010
you are a genius !!!
THANK YOU SOO MUCH
October 4th, 2011
After about 4 years, my MX1000’s battery does not keep charge very long; about 3-4 days before recharge. I followed your guide and replace the battery. It took me about 20 minutes. Thanks for the guide. I like my mouse enough that I don’t want to replace it just yet.
April 6th, 2015
Very good tutorial, I used it with a subtel battery (https://www.subtel.fr/Kodak-KLIC-5001-Batterie-pour-Kodak-Appareils-photo-101258.html) that has a much longer working time than the original one. Just need to be able to solder, and you will be pleased with it.
April 6th, 2015
Very good tuto. I followed it with a Subtel battery (https://www.subtel.fr/Kodak-KLIC-5001-Batterie-pour-Kodak-Appareils-photo-101258.html) that has a much longer working time than the original one. You just have to know how to solder and the pleadure of having a working mouse will be there.
January 5th, 2021
It’s 2021 and my mouse is still working. Again.
GJ