Archive for May, 2018

Harley Davidson TwinCam 88 1999-2006 Oil Filter Cross Reference

Thursday, May 31st, 2018

Replacement oil filters for HARLEY-DAVIDSON 63731-99A:

Brand Model
AC-Delco PF1787
AMSOIL EAO33
CARQUEST 85215
DELPHI FX1017
Fram Chrome (I use these) PH6065A
Fram PH6022
HARLEY-DAVIDSON 63731-99
HARLEY-DAVIDSON 63731-99A
HARLEY-DAVIDSON Chrome 63798-99A
K & N KN-171B
NAPA 1215
Purolator ML16822
STP S3614
WARNER PH7017
Wix 51215

 

My notes below are for a 2003 FXDWG, but should be the same for the rest of the twin cam 88s…

Oh and both primary and engine take 20W50 synthetic oil per the shop manual, however it is very expensive (from what I see about $11 a quart at the major auto parts stores). However, I have been using Mobile one synthetic 15W50 in both for years with no problems at all. And last I checked it was $22 a gallon at WalMart. :)

3 quarts in Engine

1 quart in Primary – 26oz goes in… :)

 

I also use Mobil One 75W90 gear oil in the transmission…

The transmission takes 20-24 oz according to the shop manual.

Quoted Joe Minton tuning for the Stock Harley Keihin CV carb

Sunday, May 6th, 2018

Carb Jetting Simplified
Joe Minton
Rider Report
Tuesday July 22, 2003
From the August 2003 issue of American Rider

I get a steady flow of questions regarding carb jetting and the Dynojet kits, and I’d like to answer them once and for all. Before addressing this, I need to set the stage about fuel mileage. The mileage one records is dependent upon a number of factors. The speed at which you travel is one. Mileage plunges dramatically above 60 mph or so-a bike that gets, say, 45 mpg at 60 might only record 30 at 80 mph.

Another important influence is the size of the hole you and your bike poke in the air. An FLHT touring rig needs about 12.8 horsepower to go 60 mph, while a Sportster gets along at 60 with about 10. Headwinds, climbing and elevation all affect fuel mileage. Total gross weight has little influence at steady speeds; however, carburetor jetting has dramatic effects on fuel mileage.

When I talk with someone about fuel mileage, I find it useful to set a test standard. Here is my standard: a steady 65 mph on a flat, windless road. These are conditions most of us can find and safely use. Using this standard, stock Harleys typically deliver 45 to 55 mpg-the lower for the big touring rigs and the higher for the Sportsters. I have found that properly jetted Evo, Sportster and Twin Cam Harleys deliver mileage between 42 and 51 mpg, using the test standard defined above.

Keep in mind that stock engines are tuned very much on the lean side of correct jetting. When we modify carburetors to get rid of the “lean staggers” during warm-up and to smooth out throttle response during acceleration within the lower throttle settings, we can expect somewhat lower fuel mileage at cruising speeds. However, that loss need only be a couple of mpg, not 10.

I have talked with many (easily more than a hundred) owners who have installed the Dynojet kit and who have been disappointed with the results. From your bike’s mileage I would guess that you have either a Dyna or Softail series motorcycle; 36 mpg is about right for a Dynojet-kitted FX Harley. The big touring machines usually get closer to 32 with the Dynojet kit.

An FXD or FLST that delivers 36 mpg at 65 mph is running too rich. That too-rich condition has consequences. Range is an obvious possible problem, although some riders aren’t too concerned about range as they like to stop more often than the bike needs a fill-up anyway. Climbing ability is a more important concern for those of us who need to go up or over mountains. A 36-mpg bike will probably start misfiring due to its over-rich condition by 4,000 feet, maybe even 3,000. By contrast a stock or correctly jetted engine should get to at least 6,000 feet before getting grossly rich, 7,000 feet is better and achievable.

Stock Harley jetting is very lean from just off idle to about ¼-throttle. This is also true of all road-going bikes sold in America for the last quarter century. However-and this is important-at idle and above ¼-throttle the jetting is pretty good.

Harley’s Keihin CV (constant velocity) carburetor is based on the basic Amal slide carb design from the early post-World War I era. And therefore, it shares similar parts which perform similar functions. Idle and just off-idle air/fuel mixtures are controlled by the idle jet which is fine-tuned with a screw. Both the jet size and screw setting are important.

Off-idle to approximately ¼-throttle mixtures are controlled by the straight-diameter part of the needle together with the inside diameter of the needle jet, in which the needle rides. This is the range that is too lean for best engine performance on stock motorcycles. Either the diameter of the straight part of the needle, or the inside diameter of the needle jet, must be changed to affect mixtures in this most used throttle range. Nearly all riding is done within this off-idle to ¼-throttle range.

From about ¼- to ¾-throttle, the taper of the needle controls the main mixture. One normally raises or lowers the needle to fine-tune mixtures within this range.

The main jet takes over at about ¾ throttle and is virtually unimportant below that opening.

If you would like to learn more about how to diagnose and tune these carb sub-systems, I invite you to download the Mikuni HSR Tuning Manual (www.mikuni.com; click on the picture of the carb and click on the hot link “Manuals”). I wrote this manual for Mikuni, and although it directly addresses the Mikuni carb, the diagnostic principles apply to the Keihin CV and many other carburetors as well.

To get your Harley’s stock carb right, follow these instructions:
l. Buy and install a stock jet needle for a 1988 or ’89 1200 Sportster (H-D Part No. 27094-88). This needle was developed for the early Sportster Keihin CV carb that was not equipped with an accelerator pump. As such, it is richer in the off-idle to ¼-throttle range and works just right.

2. Remove the soft aluminum plug covering the idle mixture screw. Back the screw out to slightly richen the idle mixture (½ to 1-½ turns will do it).

DO NOT do any of the following:
Do Not change the main jet; the stock one is just right with a free-flowing air cleaner and mufflers. Yep, the stock main jet is rich. If you find this hard to believe, use the main jet test in the Mikuni manual to see for yourself. You see, the main jet size is not controlled by emission testing and the government is not very interested in mixtures at full throttle. The factories are free to use any main jet they want and, for some reason, all the stock bikes I have tuned over the past 25-plus years have had somewhat rich main jets, including Evo and Twin Cam Harleys.

Do Not change the slow jet; the stock one is just right with an open air cleaner and free-flowing mufflers.

And Do Not install straight, open pipes, especially long ones. If you do, forget everything I’ve said. Straight open exhaust-equipped engines run poorly in the 2,000- to 3,500-rpm range and no amount of carb tuning can fix that.

— Joe Minton

Joe Minton Mikuni HSR42 setup/tuning recommendations

Sunday, May 6th, 2018

Quoted from Joe Minton

(This is an archive, posted to preserve the knowledge and insight of Joe Minton. From my understanding he died long before I posted this article – added 7/2023)

Background:

Carburetors work by creating a partial vacuum in the throat (venturi or choke) of the carb body. The difference in air pressure between the throat and the outside air causes fuel to flow into the carburetor through any orifice it can find. Tuning a carburetor consists of controlling the size of those orifices so that the resulting air/fuel mixtures are correct.
The Mikuni HSR is an Amal-pattern carburetor, as is the stock Keihin. Amal-pattern carburetors have three basic air/fuel control element
s: idle, main (mid-throttle) and the main jet. The HSR also has an adjustable accelerator pump, which I consider an important fourth tuning element. All tuning elements are supplied with fuel by the float bowl at the bottom of the carburetor.
The idle system is a separate carburetor built into the main body. There are appropriate connecting passages, a replaceable jet, and an adjustment screw. The screw controls the air/fuel mixture at dead idle. The jet controls mixture as the throttle begins to open. By about 10 percent throttle, the idle system is delivering all the fuel it can. It continues to provide this fuel all the way to full throttle.
The main system operates as the throttle slide is raised above about 5 percent, and it begins to deliver fuel and assumes control of the mixture. Yes, there is an overlap between the idle and main systems. However, it is not difficult to get this overlap area right if one follows the manual’s advice.
The main system consists of the throttle slide, a tapered needle (jet needle), and a needle jet. The needle is mounted in the center of the slide. The needle jet is mounted in the carb body. As the throttle slide rises and falls, the needle moves in the needle jet. The needle is tapered. The relative sizes of the needle and jet determine how much fuel is forced into the carburetor throat at any particular throttle setting. More fuel flows as the slide rises, due to the needle’s taper.
The main jet is mounted to the bottom of the needle jet and limits maximum fuel flow. It assumes control at about 75 percent of the throttle opening and has no effect until then.
The accelerator pump’s purpose is to supply a squirt of fuel when the throttle is suddenly opened and there is too little vacuum for the main system to work properly. It has a replaceable nozzle and can be adjusted for starting and ending points.
Advanced tuning is a bit involved as it is for any carburetor. The individual steps are simple and clear. The great advantage of Amal slide-type carburetors such as the Amals, Bings, Dell’Ortos, Mikunis, and others is that their entire operating range can be adjusted in the field. We have a four-step tuning procedure for these carburetors that has served well for more than 80 years.
Tuning:
First Step
Adjust the idle system. Set the adjustment screw for best idle. Fit the idle jet that gives the smoothest response as the throttle is slightly and slowly opened.
Second Step
Adjust the main system. Accelerate with the throttle between 10-to-25 percent open. If the engine responds cleanly and briskly, the needle diameter is correct or nearly so. If the engine seems lean, a smaller-diameter needle is needed. Too rich needs a larger needle. In practice, needle changes are seldom required.
Third Step
Accelerate in the 25-to-75-percent throttle range. The needle taper controls the mixture strength in this range. There are five needle-height adjustments. If the mixture seems rich, lower the needle; if lean, raise it.
Fourth Step
Accelerate at full throttle. The main jet that makes the most power is the one to use. A dynamometer is not needed for this test. Accelerate between two points on the roadway. The highest speed at the second point defines the correct main jet.
Accelerator Pump:
As I said, the accelerator pump adds fuel when the throttle is first opened. This is to both richen the mixture for maximum throttle response and to compensate for low vacuum over the needle jet. The HSR pump has three adjustments: starting point, end point, and nozzle size. Nozzle size determines the fuel delivery rate and how long the squirt lasts.
The stock settings start the pump at about 1/8th throttle and end its stroke at around 1/2 throttle. The jet is a number 80 (0.80mm in diameter). I use and recommend different settings, which I’ll detail later.
This simple set of procedures works well and can remove most of the mystery from carburetor tuning.
Does Size Matter?
Yes and no. Those people who have worked with true Amal-pattern carburetors, which have round slides, know that the larger carburetors help make more high-rpm power by flowing more air. However, that greater power potential is accompanied by a loss of low-rpm throttle response.
The more recent flat-slide variations, such as the Mikuni HSR, greatly reduce this power/response trade-off. It is now possible to fit a “top end” carburetor and still get good throttle response in the lower rpm and throttle range.
A 42mm HSR42 adds about 3 horsepower to the output of a stock Twin Cam or EVO engine. The 45 adds 7 horsepower with no loss of part-throttle response, fuel mileage or tuning sensitivity.
The performance advantage of the 45mm carb means very little to most of us. Its power advantage only begins to show at well above 5,000 rpm. The HSR42 is easier to mount as it uses the stock manifold while the HSR45 needs the larger Harley Screamin’ Eagle or Mikuni manifold. It’s your choice. If you are chasing maximum power with cams, porting, etc., then your choice is obvious. Otherwise it makes no difference which one you choose.
The HSR48? Don’t bother. Our testing shows that the HSR48 only adds 2 or 3 top-end horsepower to an already powerful (120-plus horsepower) engines.

Tuning Recommendations:

Mikuni’s default jetting and adjustments cover most engine setups, as they should. Tens of thousands have been sold with very few complaints about how well they work. However, the stock settings are fail-safes and are on the fuel rich side of ideal. I have no complaint about the stock tuning, except for the accelerator-pump settings, which I am convinced are just plain wrong.

I have developed a set of jets and adjustments for the HSR42 and 45 that work better on most properly tuned engines. By properly tuned I mean that the engine is sound, there are no long straight pipes, drag-race cams, or stylish air cleaners that don’t flow much air. Many hundreds of Harley owners have adopted my recommendations and have gotten excellent results. They report that throttle response is improved, fuel mileage is better, and their engines sound and seem “happier.” The changes I recommend include accelerator nozzle size and adjustments, idle jet size, and needle size.

Here is what I change and do:

Parts:

•17.5 idle jet, leaner than the stock 25 or 20.

•98 needle, leaner than the stock 97.

•50 accelerator pump nozzle way down from the stock 80.

•The main jet is whatever it needs to be and the stock one is generally correct.

These parts are available individually or in kit form from Fox Distributing in St. Charles, Illinois, 630-513-9700.

The kit is called the Mikuni Mileage Kit and there are separate kits for the HSR42 and 45 carburetors because the needles are different. The kits come with simple installation and tuning instructions.

Adjustments (See The Manual For Details):

1. Adjust the accelerator starting point so that the pump starts working immediately. Adjust the end point for maximum travel.

2. Fit the smaller idle jet and adjust the mixture screw for best idle.

3. Fit the leaner needle with the clip in the middle notch.

Consequences:

1. Performance just off-idle is cleaner and more immediate. This is because the idle jet is more correct and the pump delivers fuel sooner but at a lower rate than stock.

2. The engine is more responsive, cleaner and “happier” sounding because of the leaner mixtures in the 10-to-25- percent throttle range, where we do most of our riding.

3. Fuel mileage increases, sometimes dramatically. Don’t be surprised if you record 48-to-49 mpg at 65 mph. Even baggers do better.

4. Midrange throttle response is greatly improved and the engine is much more pleasant to use. Expect bugs in your teeth.

However:

1. Engines with high cranking pressures (high compression) may detonate at low rpm when accelerating. The original 97 needle should fix this.

2. Nothing, not this kit, not this carburetor, nor any carburetor, is going to make an engine suffering with open straight pipes run well.

3. Big cams, those with intake-closing angles of close to 50 degrees ATDC, aren’t going to run well below 4,000 rpm. No Mikuni or any other carburetor can fix this. Either race the thing or install a more appropriate cam for street use.

Harley Davidson Twin Cam 88/96 Spark Plug Cross Reference

Sunday, May 6th, 2018

I have these for my 2003 FXDWG

ACCEL – Y2418P

Autolite – 4164

Autolite Iridium – XS4164

Autolite Platinum – AP4164DP2

Bosch Platinum – YR6DLE

Champion – RA8HC

Denso Iridium – IXU22

H-D Standard – 6R12

H-D Gold – 6R12G

H-D Platinum – 6R12PP

NGK – DCPR7E

NGK Iridium – DCPR7EIX

Splitfire – SF416D

No known cross refs for AC Delco or NGK Platnium