Hayward Swimpure Plus is a shoddy POS…

2012/03

Ok, every year I have the same problem. The green lights on my Hayward salt generator go off. The display stays on telling me how much salt is in the pool, but the lights will not come on. Usually when I first notice this I can turn off the generator for a little while then the green power light will come back on for a while then when I turn the generator on, the relay will click, then all the led lights go dead again.

This is due to Goldline controls horrible design where a current inrush limiter goes bad and kills the power stage on the primary board.

Here are some links for this issue:

TroublefreePool

YouTubeVideo

Another user’s site with pics and descr

I’ve stolen a few pics from the last user site (just in case he pulls it down)

ametherm-sl322r025 aquariteboardremoval aquaritevaristorcloseup

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is my post from a popular pool forum:

First off I’m a little ticked at Hayward/GoldLine for continuing production of a faulty design. From the number of people complaining about this, it is not an isolated issue with my board. The only justification I can think of is that they love to sell those $400 boards as a result of the shoddy design. As a result, I have had to replace my inrush limiter once every year.

It may have something to do with my cell being the biggest the system can handle (T.15 for a 40k pool, I think). It always seems to happen after the first of the year when the pool has been too cold for the generator to run, then I run Super Chlorinate for a full day to catch up. I think this overheats the inrush limiter.

Last year I replaced the original AS32-2R025 (DigiKey 570-1105-ND) with a AS35-2R035 (Digikey 570-1112-ND). The resistance at full current was a little lower, but not far off and the part was built to run 35 amps as opposed to the OEM 25 amp… It seems that the AS35 upgrade did not fix the issue.

Update 2013:

Here we are at the beginning of another year and I’m replacing the inrush limiter again because of the same reasons…

This year I’m going with a MS series part MS32-2R035 (Digikey 570-1027-ND). Just replaced it this morning and everything is back up again.

Update 2014:

So far all is well the generator has been running fine since last year. I have not pulled the board off to see if I find any delamination on the inrush limiter part. But Everything appears normal so far. If I were giving advice I’d say to: Replace the AS32-2R025 (DigiKey 570-1105-ND) with a MS32-2R035 (Digikey 570-1027-ND). However, my decision to modify my unit was entirely my decision. If you choose to modify yours, it will be your decision. You should not take advice from me without performing your own assessment and reaching your own conclusion. Additionally, anyone who decides to do such a thing should have the work done by someone who, at least, knows how to solder…

Update 2017:

So I haven’t updated this for a while, sorry…  The system is still working fine. Where replacing the inrush limiter had become a yearly event, the beefier part has been operating without issue for 4 years now 🙂

Update 2018:

Still no issues. 5 years and counting.

19 Responses to “Hayward Swimpure Plus is a shoddy POS…”

  1. Loni says:

    Everyone is entitled to their opinion. Systems purchased through 2007 came with a 5 year pro-rated warranty – first three years in full, and you pay 60% of current retail in years 4 and 5. Units released in 2008 (rev 1.50 and greater) have a redesigned board, including a whole new limiter and it’s surrounding area (more protective), and a 3 year warranty (no pro-rated). If it was that shoddy of a design that the limiter blows every year wouldn’t they be losing a fortune? I’ve been a warranty station for them for over 11 years. NOBODY I’ve ever serviced has had this problem more than once, but to give you some credit, I’ll say MAYBE twice but several years apart. Seen A LOT of really old units out there which still have the original board installed. So I’m sorry you have an issue every year, but my experience says your situation is QUITE unique. I’d also make sure that your control box is grounded. The bonding lug is behind the flow switch port on the bottom of the box, and a ground wire of 6 or 8 gauge should be attached to it and run to the back of the pump (or another ground wire on your equipment pad.

  2. EvilT says:

    We will see if it is still working next year.

    I bought my unit in either 2009 or 2010.
    I believe I have the newer board.
    My unit is grounded.

    I have been working on electronics for a lot of years now. Repeat failure like that is a problem. You can find a lot of people out there replacing their own limiters. I posted to help people like them. So they don’t have to pay 60% of the replacement cost over a single $10 part.

  3. John Lawrence says:

    Bought mine July of 2013.
    Here we are in March and the lights don’t stay on. After I turn power off/on, the NO FLOW light flashes for about 30 seconds, the green generate light comes on for 12 seconds, and then BAM no lights.
    Googled the problem and found this blog.
    So, Loni what should I do. I assume I am still under warranty…. but, dude……….. something is rotten in Denmark

  4. Emeric says:

    I am on my third time replacing the circuit board. I just read your comments and sure enough the inrush limiter was broken in half. My problem is where do you find replacement parts…certainly not from Hayward Swimpure b/c they told me they don’t sell parts. I guess they want to sell the whole circuit board for $400 bucks

  5. EvilT says:

    I think I ordered from Digikey, I provided Digikey part numbers in this topic. You should be able to look up the part number on their site…

    The last part I put in survived the spring… So it has been the best so far.

  6. Mike says:

    Had same problem as lights not staying on. Tech at Hayward said to replace the generator. Glad that I didn’t go that route.Would have been been very costly.

  7. Jim Davidson says:

    Same symptoms twice. First time I replaced the whole board under warranty once. This time around I inspected the inrush cap and it was damaged. I’m implementing replacing it with MS32-2R035 (Digikey 570-1027-ND). This should save me $130 + $400 board.

    Thanks for the tip, and you’re right, their board is junk.

  8. Jim Davidson says:

    Follow up: I ordered the MS32-2R035 (Digikey 570-1027-ND) from DIgikey. Cost including USPS shipping (shipped on a Thurs from ND, arrived following Sat in FL) was $10.46. Removed board. Inspected cap. Cap was blown. Removed cap (took some time with my 40 Amp soldering iron). Drilled out vias to accommodate the larger diameter leads of the MS32-2R035. Reinstalled the board. Total time required was one hour. Fix worked like a champ.

    One trick for amateurs like me. Take a picture of the board in situ before you remove it. And if you’re color blind (like me) don’t be bashful to get your wife or girlfriend to double-check your interconnects when you have to reinstall it.

    Thanks for the blog. You saved me $530+ for a service call.

  9. EvilT says:

    Glad to hear you are back up an running. I couldn’t imagine doing it with a 40 amp iron. I think I used the 150 watt gun last time. 😉

  10. Dan says:

    When the LEDs are out, I’m still generating chlorine right? Other than no lights, everything seems to be looking ok with my pool.

  11. Ronen says:

    I own the Swom pure since 2010 and had to replace the in rush limiter twice. I do live in FL where we do see significant lightining strom so maybe that is why. saying that, i would recomend every owner to have this part handy. $3 and 1 hours labor max and youre done, vs. $400-$500 for new board and installtion. the only difficulty is to remove the in rusg limiter since it is has a heat sink around its legs. I had to simply cut the lefs off instead of usoldring and then crimped and soldered the new piece to the remaining of the legs. That is why 1 hour labor and not 20 minutes.

  12. Mike R says:

    Hi I seem to have run into the same exact issue, fortunately for me I was shy one month over warranty but the representative said he would still send me a replacement board. I am still planning on fixing the damaged board as mentioned on this thread with replacement part #570-112-ND from Digikey. My question is to EvilT or anyone else that has repaired the board using this part and how long it has lasted or any update from you EvilT as to the longevity or if you’ve tried something else. Thanks again for placing this information here as this is obviously still an issue.

    For everyone else I bought the Hayward SwimPure on 07/12 and this problem is still alive and well…

  13. David W says:

    I’m having the same problem. The unit is probably just over 5 years old. Upon inspection of the board, the area around both of the rush limiter’s legs is darkened. Thank you for your instructions. I’ll give it a try.

  14. David W says:

    I followed your directions exactly and it worked great!! Although my soldering was sloppy, I got green lights back on the board. Thank you for getting some yellow back in my pool test kit!
    PS- My rush limiter failed as a result of a lightening strike that also burned up the booster pump and blew out the valve in the Polaris UWF Connector Assembly Wall Fitting. Both were replaced I assume the rush limiter did it’s job of protecting the entire circuit board, although I am probably not qualified to make such a statement since I have limited understanding of the board. The small yellow fuse was not blown.

  15. william says:

    Does it still generate chlorine when the lights are out?

  16. EvilT says:

    Unless it is just the lights that are broken, the unit is not generating any chlorine without having green lights on the panel.

  17. Roger Pettis says:

    I spoke with an engineer from Ametherm this morning. They manufacture these current limiters. He recommended upgrading the component to part # MS35 2R035. This part number maintains the components initial 2ohm resistance, but is rating to handle more current (joules) which can be interpreted as able to get rid of more heat. For any electronic gurus out here this component presents 2 ohms of resistance to the circuit initially to reduce inrush current, but has a NTC or negative temperature coefficient, so as the temperature of the component increases the resistance decreases to less than .1 ohm, so it works to limit the inrush of current upon energization, but virtually have no effect on the circuit during steady state operation. The MS32 2R035 that is mentioned above as a possible upgrade is only able to handle more voltage then the AS32 2R025 not dissipate more heat it has the same joule rating, so it probably won’t show any improvement in performance.

    The MS35 2R035 does have a larger diameter lead and will require careful enlarging of the pcb holes. I would recommend hand drilling of these with appropriated size bit or judicious us of a Dremel tool. I would be very reluctance to using a common drill motor. You don’t want to damage the double-sided foil runs on the pcb. Also, ensure you re-install the spacers on the component leads to ensure proper distancing from the pcb. This is to prevent the heat from the current limiter from damaging the board. Solder site is a good size so pretty easy to desolder with a solder sucker and/or wicking. Clean pads with alcohol and swab and then re-solder. Maybe the MS35 2R035 will last longer, mine original part lasted over 2.5 years so, unfortunately it’s not a quick answer. I will update once install to let everyone know that the part actually has it working and then it will be awhile.

    Thanx to all the contributors above for hopefully saving me and a lot of others a lot of cash!

  18. Dan Martin says:

    Are we not over thinking this issue?
    I also replaced this in rush current regulator and I used the factory version AS32-2R025. This is the thicker unit with the larger flat wire feeds.
    My display said it was generating when it was not,
    By the way, Hayward just warranted my T9 salt cell so it is bran new.
    The power light/led’s and the generating led’s were on. However the salt reads 00.00 and some of the other numbers were confusing and not reading as expected either.
    The old AS32 had overheated and although it looked OK by eye; when I zoomed in on it with my photo image of the board I saw a hairline crack in the edge of the AS32. When I pulled on the crack with my finger nail, the whole thing split wide open.
    I first assumed a lightening strike/voltage surge had fried it so I went one step further and instated a whole house surge protection device in the main house circuit breaker box. By the way, these can save many headaches like florescent bulb early failure as well as other control boards failing. This however did not turn out to be the cause of the failure of the Hayward main control board, see below.
    So with a new T9 salt cell and a new thermister/ AS32 instated in my Hayward Swim pure, I boot it up with the cover off.
    Everything starts working as it did before it had failed.
    My salt reading balances out at 2900 which is correct. Amps etc read correct.
    I let it run for a few minuets and find that the AS32/2R205 is to hot to touch with my finger.
    So one of two things is now happening.
    Either there is another issue with my system which will fry the AS32 as well as the T( again or it is normal to run this. The description of this items function as well as everyone else describing the same failure would indicate that it normally runs this hot.

    So what is the fix?
    I have solved overheating of other manufactures electronics by simply epoxying a heat sink to the unit that was running to hot. This not only solved heat issues, it also extended life expectancies by 400+ %.

    This is the but what if or however:
    Since the AS32 controls current in relation to it’s temperature, how will it act when it runs cooler.
    It will certainly last much longer and the other electronics after this point should also last longer. Maybe not the salt cell. Further study of it’s function describes that the AS32 really only slows start up current and has no effect when it reaches operating temperature. So what operating temperature must we reach? This is unknown but I think that the end result of a ½ inch heat sink on each side of it, it will not allow the AS32 to heat up as fast so it will actually control the start up current surge better.
    Than with the AS32 running cooler, the current flow my be slightly less. This could result in less chlorine generation but again, I expect so small you will not be able to measure the difference. If you can measure it, turn up the parts per million knob a little.

    I will be doing this to the next burnt out main board I can get my hands on for free and swap it with my own to see if I can find any difference. If you try it, please post image and results.
    Thanks and good luck
    Dan.

  19. Barry says:

    Just bought a new house and sure enough the Sure Swim Plus box had no green lights. Since I was new to the game, I had no idea what was going on. Eventually found enough blogs. Priced out boards and new control boxes. Local companies wanted $450 for a new board + $200 labor. Bought the AS32-2R025 (DigiKey 570-1105-ND) and found a local guy to solder it on for me. Works like a champ now. Hope it works for a few years.

    St. Louis

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